Installing iPad 2 3G Battery

Installing iPad 2 3G Battery Replace the battery in your iPad 2 3G. Author: Eric Chen; Difficulty: Very difficult Use this guide to replace a worn-out battery in your iPad 2. Sections SIM Card 2 steps Front Panel 8 steps LCD 2 steps iPad 2 3G Front Panel Replacement 4 steps Logic Board 17 steps Battery 5 steps
	Step 1 — Sim Card Use a SIM eject tool or an uncoiled paperclip to eject the SIM card tray.
	Step 2 Pull the SIM tray out of its slot and remove it from the iPad 2. If replacing the SIM card, pop it out of its tray and install the new one.
	Step 3 — Front Panel The iPad 2 is an extremely difficult device to open. Before attempting this guide, be aware that you may break your front panel and/or deform the plastic bezel around it during the opening sequence. In the following steps you will use a heat gun to soften the adhesive securing the front panel to the rear panel. Try not to allow the stream of hot air to contact the thin plastic strip around the outer perimeter of the front panel as it may melt, permanently deform, and lose texture. When heating up the front panel, the goal is to loosen the adhesive located in the areas highlighted in red in the second picture. When prying up the front panel, be especially careful not to damage the Wi-Fi antenna in the area boxed in blue, the top antennas in the area boxed in yellow, or the digitizer cable in the area boxed in black in the second picture. Use a heat gun to gently heat the front panel to the right of the home button. Do not heat up the home button, as it is plastic and easily melts/deforms.
	Step 4 Once the area of the front panel to the right of the home button has been heated adequately, it should be easy to insert a plastic opening tool between the outer plastic bezel and the front panel right next to the home button. Use your plastic opening tool to gently create a small gap between the front panel and the outer bezel to the right of the home button. If the adhesive is difficult to separate, don't be afraid to heat it up again. Excessively prying and bending the front panel when the adhesive is not pliable enough can easily cause it to crack. Insert a guitar pick into the small gap created by the plastic opening tool.
	Step 5 Heat up the area of the front bezel to the right of the home button along the bottom edge and make your way closer to the bottom right corner of the iPad. Remember that this is where the wifi antenna is located and it is very easy to tear it. Slide the first guitar pick toward the bottom right corner of the iPad and insert another guitar pick to maintain the gap between the front panel and the iPad next to the home button.
	Step 6 Use your heat gun to heat the edge of the front panel near the bottom right corner of the iPad. Gently slide a guitar pick around the edge of the bottom right corner of the front panel, being careful not to force it and reheating the panel if necessary.
	Step 7 Continue heating the outer edge of the front panel and using guitar picks to separate/space the front panel from the rear panel. Insert two guitar picks as placeholders on each side of the iPad. Be very careful when separating the top edge of the iPad. Two antennas are directly in contact with the top edge of the front panel and may be damaged if separated improperly. When separating the top edge of the front panel, be sure your guitar picks are separating the antennas from the glass front panel. Be careful when approaching the bottom left corner of the iPad. Be sure to follow the next step carefully.
	Step 8 When separating the front panel from the bottom left corner of the iPad 2, be careful not to rip the digitizer cable (highlighted in red in the first picture). It is extremely thin and easy to tear. Slightly lift the front panel near the dock connector to separate it from the foam adhesive securing it to the LCD. Use a guitar pick to help cut the foam adhesive securing the perimeter of the LCD to the front panel.
	Step 9 Carefully rotate the front panel away from the iPad, being sure that no adhesive is still attaching the two components. Do not put excessive strain on the digitizer cable.
	Step 10 Lay the front panel next to the rest of the iPad 2. Do not attempt to completely remove the front panel assembly just yet, as it is still attached to the logic board via the display ribbon cable.
	Step 11 — LCD Remove the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws securing the LCD to the rear case.
	Step 12 Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and rotate it out of the rear case.
	Step 13 — iPad 2 3G Front Panel Replacement Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully flip up the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flaps, not the sockets themselves.
	Step 14 Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the digitizer cable off the shields on the logic board. Carefully pull the digitizer cable off the adhesive securing it to the side of the rear case.
	Step 15 Pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its two sockets on the logic board.
	Step 16 Temporarily put the LCD back into the body of the iPad 2 and remove the front panel, being careful not to damage the digitizer cable in the process. If you are replacing the front panel with a new one, make sure to transfer over the metal camera bracket and the home button assembly. Both can be removed using a spudger and heat.
	Step 17 — Logic Board Carefully lay the LCD next to the rear panel. Use a plastic opening tool to lift the display data cable lock upwards. Pull the display data cable out of its socket. Do not pull the connector upward as you disconnect it from its socket.
	Step 18 Remove the LCD assembly from the rear panel assembly.
	Step 19 If present, use a plastic opening tool to help remove the piece of tape covering the end of the dock connector cable. Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the dock connector cable's connector up from its socket on the logic board. Peel the dock connector ribbon cable off the rear panel.
	Step 20 Pry the speaker cable connector straight up from its socket on the logic board.
	Step 21 Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flap on the headphone jack and front camera cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying upward on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Peel the headphone jack and front camera cable off the rear case.
	Step 22 Pull the headphone jack and front camera ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
	Step 23 Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retainer securing the control board cable connector to its socket on the logic board. Pull the connector away from its socket on the logic board. Do not lift the cable upward as you disconnect it.
	Step 24 Remove the three 2 mm Phillips screws securing the SIM card slot to the rear panel.
	Step 25 Remove the two 2.9 mm Phillips screws securing the headphone jack to the top edge of the rear panel.
	Step 26 Use a plastic opening tool to help pull the headphone jack out of its recess in the top of the rear panel. Peel the headphone jack/SIM slot assembly away from the top edge of the communications board.
	Step 27 Remove the two 2.1 mm Phillips screws securing the logic board bracket to the rear case near the digitizer cable socket. Remove the logic board bracket from the rear case.
	Step 28 Remove the four 2.6 mm Phillips screws securing the logic and communications boards to the rear panel.
	Step 29 Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the logic board up from the adhesive securing it to the rear case.
	Step 30 Lift the logic board out from the rear case and rotate it slightly toward the battery. Do not try to completely remove it just yet. There are still three antenna cables attached to it.
	Step 31 Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect both antenna connectors from their sockets on the communications board.
	Step 32 Disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna connector from its socket on the logic board.
	Step 33 Remove the logic board from the iPad 2.
	Step 34 — Battery Use a heat gun to evenly heat up the two thirds of the outside of the rear case nearest the volume buttons. The heat should be concentrated in the region around Apple logo and leftside.
	Step 35 Starting with the battery cell closest to the dock connector, run a opening tool underneath the edge of the battery closest to the logic board void to make enough room to insert the flat end of a spudger. Run the flat end of a spudger along the two long sides of each battery cell to completely separate them from the adhesive securing them to the rear case. If the adhesive is very difficult to separate, reheat the rear panel and try again.
	Step 36 Before prying up the middle battery cell, use the edge of a plastic opening tool to lift the battery connector board away from the rear panel. Do not excessively bend the battery connector board. Be especially careful when prying up around the post sticking up from the aluminum rear case.
	Step 37 Next use your spudger to separate the adhesive along the long sides of the middle battery cell. Repeat the process for the final battery cell, reheating the case if necessary.
	Step 38 Carefully lift the battery out of the rear panel and remove it from the iPad 2.